Afghanistan Struggles to Emerge as Unlikely Source for New Fashion Trends

When thinking about Afghanistan, unfortunately, most people call to mind the most recent decades of violence and the political and social upheaval that has played out with dire consequences for the country's residents. A poor but historically and culturally very rich nation, Afghanistan deserves a look behind the walls of violence that has made it a representative of the difficulties of the region, past modern prejudices and preconceived notions, and into the beautiful and thriving world that has inspired artists, writers, and scientists for many thousands of years. Afghanistan may not come to mind as a place where high fashion has the great potential to come alive. To be fair, the country's use of the female burqa tends to support the idea that its residents wouldn't be much interested in the finer points of haute couture. But a new fashion line in Kabul is showing the outside world –as well as a large part of its inner society-- that Afghanistan is far from being fashion-less.
A simple glance over the traditional artisan goods of Afghanistan will yield exciting ideas about the possibilities for national fashion. With wonderful silks, rich, bold colors, an uncanny talent for embroidery, and fabrics as thin and luxurious as air, Afghan materials and talents present an incredible opportunity for putting together head-turning fashions well-suited for the country's female elite as well as clients around the world. The recent western discovery of Kabul clothing line Zarif, which is lead by a female manager (a fact that makes the label somewhat dangerous to run in a country threatened by the Taliban, which not only derides women's fashion but strictly forbids them from working), has brought these dreams to life with garments that seem crafted out of the very soul of the deserts, caverns, oases, and brilliant sunsets scattered throughout the land.
Working with fashion in Afghanistan may present particular challenges that are not experienced in other parts of the world. One source notes that the frequency of power outages means that generator fuel is a larger monthly expense than the cost of renting production and retail space. Yet it may be precisely these challenges that help craft the specific character of emerging Afghan fashion pieces, and as they make their way to the fashion capitals of the world –Zarif is sending designs to Dubai and Paris among other places--, the items are sure to begin to tell a story about the country that reflects modern-day challenges yet isn't blind to the richness of the past or the hope for the future.
Jewellery, both in terms of fine gold pieces and playful costume jewellery, is a staple of Afghan fashion, and is likely to hitch a ride on the wave of today's couture to reach a wider international audience. Filled with anticipation for the creativity and style sensibilities of these determined people, we can't wait to see what the country's artisans produce in the years to come.